Closeboard Fencing

Closeboard fencing is normally erected so it follows the contours of the ground, within reason, but it’s far better to have smooth flowing lines or a straight top than try to eradicate all gaps underneath the fence. This is especially important when using concrete posts and concrete gravel boards which are tricky to cut.

Centre stumps are not required on bays of less than 4ft long, they should always be used on longer bays, even with concrete gravel boards. Cleats should be fitted to timber posts at the right depth (top of cleat is top of gravel board) before the post is installed. Once the post is concreted in with the rails in the mortices the gravel board can be fitted with no more measuring. The stump can then be fitted and the feather-edge placed on the gravel board at the correct height to be fixed, 5 at a time, to the top arris rail. These are then levelled and fixed to the other rails.

Feather-edge boards are generally set at 13 to the running metre. The last feather-edge on the run is reversed and overlapped by the previous board. (so both posts have the thick edge of the board adjacent). On longer runs of fencing the feather edge are often reversed from panel to panel to give an attractive effect. Posts should be set in the ground to depth of 600mm (2ft) as a minimum. Fences under 750mm (2ft 6″) should have posts set in to 450mm (18″).

Posts should generally be concreted in using a ballast and cement mix or a rapid setting post mix, about 20 – 30kgs a hole is average.

Capping is an optional extra and when combined with a counter rail gives a attractive finish to the fence. It also increases the longevity. Timber post tops come in a variety of styles, a half backweather is standard but full backweather, round top, point top or indeed any style you like, can be machined to order.


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Closeboard Fencing Components Diagram
Garden Fencing General Picture